Friday, July 13, 2007

Il Palio--Preperations for the Race

On race day, we had to get to Sienna by a certain time because they lock the city down. To make sure that not too many people get in and out. It was too early for the race to start, so we split up and hung around, agreeing to meet in the square at a certain time to watch the race.

It was readily apparent that people were ready for the race, that this was a big part of people's lives. On the streets of the city were the different flags and they hung to represent which contrada you were in. We were all wearing our Tortuca scarves, but there wasn't any negative backlash if you were in a different contrada (neighborhood).

There were actually a lot of tourists in the city. We ate lunch in a restaurant next to some people from Florida, who were actually not in Sienna for the race. A lot of tourists come to Sienna for the Palio, but these people were just visiting the city and were actually leaving before the race was due to begin.

has two flag twirlers, who have to perform a flag routine for him, and then he blesses them. This is a very important part of the ceremony. The flag men have to train ten years before they can perform before the bishop. The We met at the square a good hour and a half before the ceremony was going to start so we could get a good spot to see. The pageantry involved with the Palio is almost more important than the race itself. It certainly takes up more time. Before the race, each contrada must present the riders and representatives to the Bishop of Sienna. The contradas are judged for their flags and procession and a winner is picked, separate from the winner of the race.

The parade was amazing. First, it must be noted that the members
who are officially in the parade representing the contrada are all dressed in medieval costumes, FULL medieval costumes. The contrada's procession begins with a flag carrier, the flag of the contrada . They are then followed by other people, including the two flag twirlers and the duce. The duce is supposedly the "most handsome man in the contrada." He's dressed up in armor. Following behind the official procession may be other members of the contrada. For one contrada, the whole neighborhood came out, singing the song and waving their scarves.

The most amazing thing about this was the passion and pride everyone had for their contrada. Everyone took such pride in what they did and were so excited when the bishop blessed them. The performances by the flag twirlers were all greeted with such loud and excited responses, even though they performed them three times for the judges. Even though they were competing against each other, the spirit at this point wasn't tense, or an idea of someone failing so that another contrada could win. The idea was more of everyone doing well so everyone could look good.

We could only watch the ceremony until the Tortuca because we had to haul it to the race track because they shut the doors at a certain time, and if you're not in by then, you're locked out.

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